Category Archives: ICW – Intracoastal Waterway

Happy New Year!!

1/1/17
Key West, FL
Posted by Bill

Happy New Year everyone! New Year’s Eve has for a long time been a holiday where we just party at home. We would usually get together with close friends and just hang out. This year was quite different. Since we don’t have to drive, and there is a crazy party going on all through Key West, we got in to the fray. The city closes off Duval Street and some adjacent streets that intersect, and the whole closed off area is jammed with people. On a normal day, Key West does not enforce the open container laws, so it makes for a crazy atmosphere on New Year’s Eve. There are at least 3 “ball drop” events around town that I know of. One is up Duval where the gay and lesbian bars are, and a transvestite rides a giant ladies shoe down. Another is along the docks at Key West Bight, where we are docked, where a pirate wench is lowered from a schooner mast. The third is at Sloppy Joe’s Bar on Duval, where a large, lit up conch shell, rides down and a large “2017” sign lights up at midnight. We (Byrd Ketcher, Sofia Jeanne, and friends Jack and Lori) chose Sloppy Joe’s. We snagged some seats in the back of Ricks, directly across from the conch drop. At about 10:00, things started to get crazy in the streets. They had a DJ standing on the roof at Sloppy Joe’s who was playing loud music and working the crowd up to the big event. People were throwing beads from balconies, and girls were flashing breasts (not as many as New Orleans). At midnight there were people shaking up bottles of champagne and spraying the crowd. The streets were so packed that you could barely move. I was glad we had a front row seat in Ricks, as we had somewhat of a buffer, and a bathroom (lol):
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It was a blast to celebrate with our good friends!!!

Leading up to the new year, we made a few runs to the grocery store on bikes, hung by the pool one day, and did our usual happy hour routine. The day after Christmas the crowds started to pick up in town, and it has been really busy. You quickly get tired of fighting the tourists, especially on Duval, but the people watching has been fantastic. Today there is a big pot luck on the dock, which should be fun.

Here is a picture of Darth Vader playing a banjo. We thought our grandson Wrigley would like this one!!
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Speaking of grandsons….our latest arrived on the 29th…Liam:15822858_10154049405906689_6814007917258463093_n
Congratulations to Eric and Jessica! This was the first grandchild that we were not there when they were born, which was a real bummer.

Have a great 2017 everyone!

Surviving Key West

12/22/16
Key West, FL
Posted by Bill

I have to admit…as frugal as we are, staying here is worth the cost of the slip. There is so much to do within a short walk. We used the bikes (very nice bikes) that the marina provides and did a grocery run the other day, stopping at a really good taco stand on the way. Other than that bike ride, we have been walking multiple times per day and just exploring. Besides the bars, we have been checking out the houses in Old Town. The architecture is very similar to Southport NC, our new summer home, and since we are building a house next summer we wanted to get some ideas. There are many houses that look like this, and it is the same general plan we want to build:
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It also helps to have our builder (as well as one of our best friends) traveling with us and giving us guidance. It is amazing what a house in shambles will cost you here in Key West.

As I mentioned in the last post, the town is decorated for Christmas. Here are some pictures:
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In addition to the crazy people you see here, there are some interesting vehicles too:
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Kurt and Sharon (Byrd Ketcher), and Matt and Shirley (Sofia Jeanne) have been here for monthly stays several times in the past, and have helped us identify some of the good places to eat and drink. We contributed some of our favorites too. The other night we went to Turtle Kraals and watched the turtle races:
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The bar hands out tickets with a number that corresponds to a turtle. If your turtle wins, you pick a key from a board of almost 100 keys. If the key opens the lock on a treasure chest, you win at least $250. Several of us had the winning turtle number, but no one picked the right key, however…Tricia picked the key right next to the winner. Oh well! We really like going to Rick’s on Duval Street (the main drag through Key West, where most of the action is). There is a regular entertainer there called Adrian. Our travel partners know him very well. He has stayed at Matt and Shirley’s house when traveling. He plays dirty songs and picks on the crowd, and is hilarious! Great fun. Here is a picture of him that Shirley snapped:
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Kurt snapped this one of all of us at Rick’s last night:
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I’ll leave you with some random pictures of the marina, starting with our view from the end of our dock:
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The pool:
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And a view of the fish around the dock:
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Speaking of fish around the dock…there has been a very large bull shark visiting us almost every day when the fishing boats come in. People feed it and the tarpon. It is BIG! We won’t be swimming in the marina!

Key West

12/17/16
Key West, FL
Position: 24 33.749N, 081 47.998W
Posted by Bill

We wrapped up our visit in Marathon with a stop at Harbor Cay Club to visit with our friends there. Having stayed there for a couple of winters, we have made some good friends. It was good to catch up and we hope to see some of them in Key West while we are there. A few of the boats were not home, so we missed a couple of people unfortunately. Maybe we can catch them coming north in January.

On the 14th, we shoved off and cruised to Key West, the of the road if you are traveling by car in the Keys. There was a lot of sea grass floating around, especially in the first half of the trip, and several boats had to clear their raw water intakes a couple of times. Other than that, the trip was uneventful, and we pulled in to Conch Harbor Marina in Key West Bight in mid-afternoon. Here is what Key West looks like as you are coming up the channel:
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(Mallory Square where the sunset gathering is:)
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We have been to Key West several times via land, but this was our first time here in our boat. It is sssoooooo expensive to pay for slips here, and we are pretty frugal, so we never opted to do it. This year we decided to splurge and check it out for at least one time. Everyone says that Christmas and New Years is a blast here, so we opted to stay until the middle of January. The other reason we have not stayed here on our boat is because we thought we might need a liver transplant if we stayed longer than a week (the longest we stayed before this was 5 days, and it about killed us!) If you are not familiar with Key West, it is known for an endless chain of bars and “anything goes” behavior. There is live music everywhere you turn, and plenty of shops and stores with some unique stuff. One of the best things is the people watching. You can see pretty much anything here.

The marina we are in is gated, has pretty decent restrooms and showers, free laundry (yes, I said free), a nice pool right outside the gate, free bikes, and is right in the heart of the action in the most popular area of Key West called Old Town. The pool is part of a restaurant/bar called Dante’s. Right next door is Half Shell Raw Bar and Schooner Wharf Bar, so if you have been to those places you know where we are. I’ll post some pictures of the area in the next couple of posts.

The night we got here, there was a Christmas boat parade that we could watch from the end of our dock. It was very cool, but the pictures did not turn out too good. Here are a few:
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We jumped right in to the happy hour scene and have been having a great time the last couple of days. I’ll post more every couple of days. Everywhere you look, the town is decorated up for Christmas. It makes me think of my Mom. She loved Christmas, especially the lights and decorations. She would be loving this!!! Sure do miss her!

Arriving in Miami…and to a serious leak

12/4/16
Marine Stadium, Miami FL
Position: 25 44.505N, 080 09.984W
Posted by Bill

We really enjoyed Stuart while we were there, and also some rest from traveling almost every day for weeks. The next stage of travel was to get through Fort Lauderdale, into Miami and Biscayne Bay, then head into the Florida Keys. Miami and Fort Lauderdale have placed several anchoring restrictions that severely limit the number of places you can anchor, which forces you into renting a slip. The slip prices in these places are pretty stiff, so we were looking to skip Fort Lauderdale all together and travel off shore from Lake Worth (Palm Beach) to Miami in one really long day. There are over 30 bridges to negociate when you take the ICW from Lake Worth to Miami, which is a major pain in the ass, so missing those by going off shore was a large factor in choosing that route. The next window of decent weather was looking like 12/2-12/3, so we left Stuart and traveled to Lake Worth, anchoring just off the inlet at position: 26 46.102N, 080 2.673W. Along the way, Byrd Ketcher broke an alternator belt, so we waited while Kurt put on a new one, and off we went. One of the things that I hate about south Florida are the power boaters. They are assholes. In the Carolinas and Georgia, everyone waves when we pass each other , and most power boats are aware of the effect of their wake on smaller boats and sailboats, so they are courteous. Not so in south Florida. You say hi…they ignore you like you are not there. They will throw a 4 foot wake flying right next to you with no regard of the effect. So here is Byrd Ketcher, anchored just off the channel, clearly broken down, and the power boats just go flying by! It is just unbelievable how rude and egotistical these people are. Really tough to work on a boat at anchor with power boats throwing wakes at you. End of rant…

We met up with Tricia’s cousin Bob and his wife Lynn in Lake Worth. They live nearby and really wanted to have dinner with us. We took the dinghy ashore to Riviera Beach Marina, paid a tie up fee, and they picked us up and treated us to a fantastic dinner. It was really nice talking to them and enjoying the meal. We had planned to leave at 4AM the next morning so we beat it back to the boat and checked the weather…window closed for leaving the next day off shore, but Friday looked OK for going off shore from Lauderdale to Miami (which we have to do because our mast is too tall to take the ICW for that stretch), so we decided to take the ICW to Lauderdale and try to find a place to anchor.

We left early on the 2nd, and about 2 hours into the trip Byrd Ketcher develops an engine overheating problem (rough luck for them this trip). It looks like they need to replace the water pump which will require an overnight stay at Boyten Beach to get parts. Sofia Jeanne and Byrd Ketcher can go ICW all the way to Miami since their masts are lower than ours, and the weather window for us to go off shore is about an 8 hour window, so we reluctantly leave them behind to deal with the issue and press on. We anchored in Sunset Bay in Fort Lauderdale in position: 26 08.577N, 080 06.525W. It was a great anchorage and there were only 2 other boats with us:
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The next day we went out the inlet at Fort Lauderdale and motored to Govenors Cut inlet at Miami. We stayed about a mile and a half off shore and had pretty calm seas until the last 3rd of the trip:
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The seas were following, so it was pretty comfortable. Pictures of arriving in Miami:
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We seem so small next to the big ships!

We pulled into Marine Stadium, which is an abandoned stadium where they held boat races and ski competitions, etc… It is now a really nice anchorage with a fantastic view of the Miami skyline:
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As we pulled in, the bilge pump kick on, which it never does. We don’t get much water in the bilge normally, never enough to kick on the pump. Couple of minutes later, it kicks off again, and it kept doing it while we were looking for a spot to drop the hook. I did a quick drop, enough to find out what was dumping water into the bilge. You get a real sour feeling in the gut when you know the boat is taking on water, trust me. After troubleshooting, we found that a hose fitting on the hot water heater had broken and fresh water was being dumped into the bilge as fast as the pump would push it, then subsequently dumped into the bay by the bilge pump. Easy to stop it by switching off the fresh water pump, but we didn’t have a spare for that part of the system. I should also note that Marine Stadium is at least 4 miles away from anything that could potentially provide a new part. After digging through our spare plumbing parts, we found a fitting that matched from the air conditioner condensation drainage plumbing…an absolute miracle! It took some effort to remove the broken part, and we had to move all of the stuff out of the “garage” (aft berth) to do the repair, but all went well. Next, since we dumped more than half of our tank of fresh water, we needed to commission the new water maker I installed. We hadn’t been in decent water to run the thing until now, so yesterday I started it up, and we had issues. One, I had switched the output fittings on the pressure cylinder, so brine water was coming out of the fresh water hose. Two, the pump that we use to provide sea water wouldn’t push the air out of the system. I spent most of the day in the cockpit locker where all of the stuff is installed, and finally got it working. We made about 15 gallons of water in an hour and then called it quits for the day. Today we will do some exploring and make more water.

Meanwhile, our traveling partners continued to work on Byrd Ketcher several times along the way, and we expect them here this afternoon. I think the overheating problems are finally solved. Fingers crossed.

Happy Thanksgiving

11/27/16
Stuart FL
Posted by Bill

I hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving. As I said in the last post, it is always a time that we especially miss our family and Ohio friends, as we always had get-togethers with all. That being said…we had a delightful time with our cruising family here in Stuart. Hayden and Radeen on Island Spirit scored a great table at the marina sponsored Thanksgiving dinner. In addition to Hayden and Radeen, we had Matt and Shirley on Sofia Jeanne, and Kurt and Sharon on Byrd Ketcher, and a couple that we just met…from Travelin’ Light. There were over 100 people in attendance, and the marina provided turkey, dressing, mashed potatoes, gravy and cranberries. Everyone attending brought a side dish or dessert. It was really good and we had fun at our table!
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On Friday, we walked to the historic downtown area of Stuart to browse the many shops and restaurants, and check out the tree lighting ceremony..complete with acrobatic elves:
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Even Grady and Bart got to come, all dressed up for the occasion:
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Yesterday, Matt and Shirley rented a car and we all went shopping for provisions and some general stuff that we needed, then had a cookout and sing-a-long around the fire with several others here at the marina. It was a great time hanging out. Looking forward, we are going to stage overnight at the Lake Worth Inlet and run offshore to Biscayne Bay/Miami later this week. We are watching the weather and so far it looks like Friday is the next best day for an offshore run. In the meantime, we will continue to enjoy Stuart, the great weather we have been having, and the great sunsets:
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Stuart Florida

11/22/16
Stuart, FL
Position 27 11.820N, 080 15.740W
Posted by Bill

We left Vero Beach on the 20th and went down the Indian River in some high winds all day. They were out of the north and the river flows north-south, so we had some rapids-like waves most of the day. At the Saint Lucie Inlet, we turned and went up the Saint Lucie River and went 8 miles up to the town of Stuart. Friends Kurt and Sharon on Byrd Ketcher were there and said that there was a great mooring field with lots of places to eat and shop in walking distance. We decided to change our plan of spending Thanksgiving in West Palm/Lake Worth and check out the mooring field. This place is really nice. Not only did we have a union of the 2015 Keys/Bahamas travel group, but we found friends Hayden and Radeen from Island Spirit! We booked a mooring for a week, the first time we have stopped for more than a couple days since we left. It is difficult to keep moving every day without a break we were ready for one. Yesterday we slept to almost 9 AM, and then walked to the grocery store, took a long dinghy ride to check out the shoreline. Today we caught the marina shuttle and went to the liquor store and West Marine, then came back to the boat for a nap in the cockpit. It was a beautiful day, warm with a nice breeze, and we have a fantastic water view. The marina here is extremely clean and well appointed. There is a great captains lounge with a popcorn machine, and really nice sitting areas surrounding the marina. Tomorrow we expect to make another run to the grocery (you can only carry so much stuff on foot…lol). The nearest grocery is a Publix and is just less than a mile. The liquor store is about 2 miles and West Marine is 3. The marina shuttle only runs a couple times a week, but you can use their bikes any time, and it is not really that far of a walk to any of those. I also took a 2 day break from boat work…wow, is that nice! Back on it tomorrow. We hear that the Thanksgiving feast at the marina is really nice and we are looking forward to checking it out. This is one of those times of year that we really miss our old family traditions, and seeing everyone, so we need something to keep our spirits up!!! Here are some pictures of our view from the mooring we are on:
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Marineland to Vero

11/19/16
Vero Beach FL
Position 27 39.600N, 080 22.244W
Posted by Bill

On the 17th we departed Marineland and motored the ICW to Rockhouse Creek at Ponce Inlet, anchoring at position 29 03.701N, 080 55.878W. It is just south of Daytona Beach. We have anchored several times before in this creek. There is a great beach there and a beautiful view of Ponce Inlet and the lighthouse there. We all took the dinghys to the beach and let Grady run and swim. He is like a furry kid, and it is so much fun to travel with him. He had a great time. The next day we motored to Cocoa/ Cocoa Beach and anchored in position 28 21.122N, 080 43.160W. We have also stopped here every trip north and south. We checked out the really cool hardware store they have and had some Jurassic appetizers at a local restaurant. The trip through New Smyrna Beach was another round of boats tossed up on shore, tarped roofs on houses and damaged docks from hurricane Matthew. We have seen this damage all along the route from South Carolina through New Smyrna. More pics:
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Many of the boats were clearly “live-a-boards” and people that did not have a lot of money. We feel for them. We also saw tons of dolphins and manatee along this route. We have been seeing dolphin regularly since the Georgia/South Carolina border, but they have been very prevalent since the Florida border. The manatees were in herds of dozens, many in the channels that we traverse. We have not seen manatee in the channels like this ever before. It was crazy, and we had to dodge them for hours. Very cool.
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It was also cool to see the sun rises over the last several weeks. I can count the number of sun rises I saw in my dirt dwelling life with my toes and fingers, and it is amazing to me to see them every day, most rising above the water with dolphins, pelicans and various wildlife filling the scene. Very cool, despite the fact that we have to get up at the butt crack of dawn while in this travel mode.

Today we motored to Vero Beach, one of our favorite stops along the Florida coast, and took a mooring. It ended up being a crazy day on the Florida ICW, especially since it was a weekend day. You all know how much I hate the Florida ICW on the weekends if you have been following the blog. Today was not much different. Vero was pretty full, as it always gets for Thanksgiving. This year we have decided to stay one night here and move on to a mooring field and marina in Stuart Florida. We are meeting up with Kurt and Sharon on Byrd Ketcher, and it will be a major reunion!!! Just after dark we watched a rocket launch from Kennedy Space Center. It was very cool!!! We are going to miss spending some time in Vero but are looking forward to a new place in Stuart. There have been many stops along the route south this year that are new stops for us, and that has been really fun. We have found many cool anchorages that we will definitely return to. We will chill in Stuart until after Thanksgiving and then begin the trek through the Keys. The last couple of weeks has been fun but very tiring. We are looking forward to some down time and enjoying the nice weather now that we are in central Florida.

Finally back in Florida, but looking for warm weather

11/16/16
Marineland Marina, Palm Coast FL
Position: 29 40.140N, 081 12.887W
Posted by Bill

On the 14th, things had calmed down enough that we could transit St Andrew’s Sound just south of Jekyll Island. If you remember, last fall we got our asses kicked going across the sound in high winds out of the north. Smarter this year, we waited until the weather calmed down. We made our way into Florida and past Fernandina Beach, one of our usual stops. The marina and mooring field are still closed from hurricane Matthew damage. We started to see much more evidence as we got into southern Georgia and continue to see it through Florida, mostly damaged docks and boats.
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We pressed on and tried to get a spot on the free dock outside of Jacksonville FL, but it was full. We doubled back to the Fort George River, one of our favorite anchorages, but we arrived at low tide and found the river entrance to be shoaled over. After running aground and backing off, I was able to find a deep spot in the entrance to get us in to the river and anchorage area. Sophia Jeanne followed and we rafted off to them after they set their anchor in position 30 26.600N, 081 26.489W. That night we ate dinner together and enjoyed the Beaver Full Moon over the water. It was spectacular!

On the 15th we upped anchor and made it to St Augustine, taking a mooring in the south mooring field. We went ashore and enjoyed our favorite happy hour in St Augustine, then partied with Matt and Shirley on our boat for several hours. Great fun!! Picture of the mooring field:
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Today we did a short day run to Marineland marina on the Palm Coast. We did some boat maintenance and walked the beach.
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It was finally a warm day. The last 5 days we have been freezing our asses off in low 50s temps at night and mid 60s in the day. Funny how your perspective changes after you live in the south for a few years. It was nice to take a short trip and enjoy the beach as we have been running pretty strong.

The next 3 days will take us to Vero Beach where we will meet up with good friends Kurt and Sharon on Byrd Ketcher. We also expect to see many other friends that will be gathering there for the Thanksgiving festivities that are very popular. We really enjoyed it last year and will be looking forward to seeing people that we have met and catching up with them.

Layover in Jekyll Island

11/13/16
Jekyll Island, GA
Position:31 02.690N, 081 25.366W
Posted by Bill

On the 10th, we departed Beaufort and cruised into Georgia, anchoring in Turner Creek at position 32 00.900N, 080 59.363W. We debated on several alternatives to position ourselves for the first of 3 major shoal areas in Georgia, Hell Gate. Neither of us had anchored in this creek and we heard mixed reviews about it’s viability as a good stop over. We were pleasantly surprised. The creek is very narrow, but the holding was excellent, and there were several shopping and eating options within a short walk of the anchorage. You have to pay a fee to bring your dinghy ashore at the local marinas, but it is worth it. We checked out the hardware store and the Publix grocery store, and then found a dive bar right on the water that was tucked away behind the surrounding commercial real estate. You really had to know that it was there, and after one look, you first thought…I think I’ll steer clear of this place. It was fantastic! No need for happy hour, the drinks were incredibly cheap, and strong! Plus free popcorn!! The place was packed with locals. One guy asked us “How did you find this place? No one but locals every comes here.” We told him we were anchored 150 feet off the back of the place, and he was very welcoming. This was a major find, and we had a great time!!!! A view of the anchorage:
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The next day we moved on to the Crescent River to stage for the next shoal area, Little Mud River. We faced a major current for the first several hours and we were worried that we would not pass Hell Gate with enough tide to keep us off the bottom, but we made it without incident. As soon as we slowed the boat to put the anchor down in the Crescent River, the no-see-ums swarmed like a plague. If you have never had to deal with them you are lucky. We ducked down below and missed a great evening and sunset because of those pests!! You can barely see them and they bite like mosquitoes. The bite itches something fierce…more than mosquitoes. We anchored in position 31 29.334N, 081 19.703W.

Yesterday we upped anchor a little later than first light because we needed to time the tide through Little Mud River and target Jekyll Creek for later in the day…both major shoal areas. We had the current with us most of the day and actually had to put the boat in neutral for several hours…still drifting at 3 to 5 miles per hour. The currents in Georgia are crazy, and the tides are 8 to 9 feet! A cold front was moving through and the wind was gusting over 35 knots for most of the day. We moved through several open water areas called sounds that provided little protection from the wind, and coupled with lower temperatures (in the low 60s), the day was horribly miserable. We have had more than a month of great weather and it made it more difficult to deal with the mess that Mother Nature dealt to us on this day. I had 3 sweatshirt/fleeces and foul weather gear on, including ski gloves, and I was shivering cold while driving the boat. The wind and current made it very challenging to steer the boat, especially through the shoal areas. We had originally planned to anchor in the Jekyll Creek area, but when we got there and tried to anchor, we changed our plan. There were about 7 or 8 boats in the anchorage struggling to keep from dragging, and the sea state and wind really made us think twice. We called the marina at Jekyll and took the last 2 spots on the face dock. We were so thankful to be able to tie up to a slip. Afterwards, we watched the boats in the anchorage struggle all night, and one power boat dragged into a sailboat. Another sailboat dragged about 300 yards overnight and was sitting just off our port beam (left side) when we awoke this morning. It was crazy and we were glad we weren’t in the anchorage!!!! Today’s forecast was more of the same, and we have had our asses kicked in the next sound on the southern route, so we stayed an extra day and explored Jekyll Island. We have always wanted to check it out but never have. The marina had a free golf cart so we drove around and checked it out. Jekyll was home of the Millionaires Club back in the late 1800s, Jekyll Island became an exclusive hunting club for families with names like Rockefeller, Morgan, Vanderbilt, Pulitzer, and Baker. They established a millionaires club and built a “Disneyland” type atmosphere for the members to enjoy. When German submarines were discovered off shore in the mid 1940s, they freaked out and donated the island to the state of Georgia. The once private retreat is now part of The Jekyll Island Club National Historic Landmark District, one of the largest preservation projects in the southeast. Here are some pictures of the historic area with the millionaire’s mansions:
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Some of these are “cottages” of Rockefeller, Goodyear, Vanderbilt, Flagler, etc… You can go inside some of them and some are now museums, but we didn’t really check that out. It is a cool island and we are glad we stayed another day to see it. As it usually turns out…fate was involved. This morning about 7:30, the shore power went out, just as I was making coffee. At first I thought it was a problem with our boat because other people had power on the dock. Through my troubleshooting, I found that we only had 60 volts coming from the shore power connection, clearly a problem with the marina, but I also noticed that we had some burn marks on the receptical where the shore power goes into the side of the boat…not good! Last summer I had to replace the air conditioning receptical for the same reason, so I swapped out that receptical for the burned one. Now I will have to replace the other before we use air conditioning or heat. These types of problems are the leading cause of fire on a boat, so I am glad I found it before we had a problem. It turned out that a fuse had blown in the marina, and that was the real problem, but had I not gone through the troubleshooting process, we may have had a major problem, and somewhere other than a dock, where the problem is easier to deal with. Now if I could only fix the problem I have with our newly installed wind generator…but that is the subject of another post!! Tomorrow we get back on the “road” again, pushing into Florida!

Ready for Georgia

11/9/16
Beaufort, SC
Position: 32 25.704N, 080 40.871W
Posted by Bill

We departed our slip in Charleston around 7 AM on the 7th, timing the slack tide because the current is so difficult to deal with in the Charleston rivers. We moved across the Ashley river and dropped anchor to wait out a bridge closure on Wapoo Creek. The bridge there is closed from 6-9 in the morning and again from 4-7 in the evening to deal with rush hour. We opted to anchor for a few hours versus drive around in circles. That day we ended up in Mosquito Creek, in position 32 33.403N, 080 26.866W, about 2/3rds of the way to Beaufort. We found out why the creek got it’s name…no-see-ums and mosquitoes the size of small birds! It was a gorgeous anchorage in spite of the bugs:
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In the middle of the night, I got up to check on the anchor and was treated to a sky full of so many stars that it looked like a TV screen with bad reception.

The next day we used the tide to get through a notorious shoal area called Ashpoo/Coosaw Cutoff and made way for Beaufort, which we had considered skipping. About an hour after we were underway, Matt called on the radio and reported that he had a major oil leak on Sofia Jeanne. He was able to make it to Beaufort and get a spare part delivered a day later, so we hung out for a few days on mooring balls, enjoying the downtown area and doing boat maintenance…of course. He got his part and made the repairs today, and we did some passage planning over happy hour drinks. We are now ready to push south in to Georgia. For the trip thus far, the tides have been very well aligned for us to traverse the shoal areas. Not so much for Georgia. We have 3 major shoal areas facing us and high tide is late in the day. It will be a little slower for us in this next week timing the tides and our stops. Also, the days are getting shorter. We will try to make it to St Augustine Florida by the 15th, and Vero Beach by the 19th. It will be a tough week of traveling.

The Beaufort mooring field:
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Since we hit Charleston, we have been seeing more evidence of hurricane Matthew, docks destroyed and boats up on land like this one:
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Finally, a picture that I forgot to post a few days ago. This was the sunset from the Awendaw Anchorage on the 3rd:
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